Garment Quality Control and Inspection: Complete Guide for Fashion Imports

Effective quality control requires a systematic approach from product development through final shipment.

Quality Control Stages

1. Pre-production: Sample approval, material testing, production readiness
2. During production: In-line inspections to catch issues early
3. Pre-shipment: Final random inspection before shipping
4. Post-arrival: Spot checks at destination (optional)

Quality Specification Development

Clear specifications prevent disputes and ensure consistency:

• Tech pack: Detailed construction specifications
• Size specifications: Measurements with tolerances
• Material specifications: Fabric weight, hand feel, color standards
• Workmanship standards: Acceptable stitch density, seam allowances, etc.
• Packaging specifications: Folding, hangers, tags, poly bags

Approved Samples

Maintain approved samples for reference:

• Pre-production sample: Final approved sample before production
• Production sample: First production unit for verification
• Counter sample: Left with factory for reference during production
• Shipment sample: Random pull from each shipment for records

Different inspection types serve different purposes. A comprehensive QC program uses multiple inspection points.

Pre-Production Inspection

Before production begins, verify:

• Raw materials meet specifications
• Trims, labels, and packaging are correct
• Production samples match approved samples
• Factory is prepared (correct equipment, trained operators)

During Production Inspection (DUPRO)

When 20-30% of production is complete:

• Catch quality issues before full production
• Verify production matches approved sample
• Check workmanship on completed units
• Identify and correct problems while production continues

Pre-Shipment Inspection (PSI)

When 100% of production is complete and packed:

• Random sampling per AQL tables
• Comprehensive quality checks
• Measurement verification
• Packaging and labeling check
• Go/no-go decision for shipment

Container Loading Inspection

During container loading:

• Verify correct quantity loaded
• Check for loading damage
• Verify carton marking and count
• Document with photos

AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) defines how many defects are acceptable in a production lot. Understanding AQL is essential for inspection decisions.

What is AQL?

AQL is a statistical sampling method that determines:

• How many units to inspect from a lot
• How many defects trigger pass/fail decision
• Different thresholds for critical, major, and minor defects

Common AQL Levels for Apparel

Sample Size Determination

AQL tables determine sample size based on lot size:

Defect Classification

• Critical: Needle in garment, wrong fiber content, safety hazard
• Major: Wrong size, significant color variation, functional failure (broken zipper)
• Minor: Slight shade variation, small cosmetic imperfection, minor measurement variance

Understanding common defect types helps focus inspection efforts and communicate issues to factories.

Fabric Defects

• Shade variation: Color differs within garment or between garments
• Fabric flaws: Holes, snags, pulls, runs
• Wrong fabric: Incorrect weight, composition, or hand
• Shrinkage issues: Fabric not properly pre-shrunk

Construction Defects

• Seam issues: Puckering, uneven, skipped stitches, unraveling
• Hem problems: Uneven hem, incorrect length, twisted
• Topstitching: Uneven, crooked, wrong color
• Structural: Twisted garment, asymmetrical, poor alignment

Measurement Defects

• Out of tolerance: Measurement exceeds specified tolerance
• Inconsistent sizing: Same size varies between units
• Wrong size label: Garment doesn't match labeled size

Trim and Finishing Defects

• Missing components: Buttons, zippers, labels missing or incomplete
• Trim defects: Wrong color, poor attachment, poor quality
• Label issues: Wrong content, placement, or missing information
• Pressing: Improper pressing, shine, creasing

Packaging Defects

• Wrong packaging: Incorrect hanger, bag, or folding
• Damaged packaging: Torn polybags, broken hangers
• Labeling: Wrong UPC, missing price tickets

Consistent sizing is critical for customer satisfaction and return rates. Measurement control requires clear specifications and consistent verification.

Developing Size Specifications

• Grade rules: How measurements change between sizes
• Tolerance levels: Acceptable variation from spec
• Key measurements: Critical dimensions that define fit
• Secondary measurements: Less critical but still controlled

Typical Measurement Tolerances

Measurement Inspection

• Measure on flat surface using consistent method
• Check multiple sizes per shipment
• Compare to spec, not just to sample
• Document measurement findings

Fit Sessions

For critical products, conduct fit sessions:

• Fit samples on live models
• Evaluate movement, comfort, appearance
• Compare to approved fit sample
• Document any adjustments needed

Third-party inspection companies provide independent quality verification. Understanding when and how to use them maximizes value.

When to Use Third-Party Inspection

• New factory relationships (before trust is established)
• Critical or high-value orders
• History of quality issues with supplier
• Limited internal QC resources
• Need for independent verification

Major Inspection Companies

• SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek (global coverage)
• QIMA, Asia Inspection (Asia-focused)
• Regional specialists in specific markets

What Third-Party Inspections Include

• Visual inspection per your specifications
• Measurement verification
• Workmanship evaluation
• Packaging and labeling check
• Detailed report with photos

Inspection Costs

• Typical cost: $200-400 per man-day
• One man-day covers 1-2 standard inspections
• Additional costs for testing, multiple locations

Maximizing Inspection Value

• Provide clear specifications and defect classification
• Supply approved samples for reference
• Define pass/fail criteria clearly
• Review reports promptly and follow up on issues
• Use inspection data to improve supplier performance

Beyond visual inspection, many garments require laboratory testing for safety and performance.

Common Test Requirements

• Fiber content: Verify actual fiber composition matches labels
• Colorfastness: Resistance to washing, rubbing, light
• Dimensional stability: Shrinkage after washing
• Flammability: Required for sleepwear and children's products
• Physical performance: Tensile strength, pilling, abrasion

Children's Product Testing

CPSIA requires third-party testing for children's products:

• Lead content (100 ppm limit)
• Phthalates (certain products)
• Flammability (sleepwear)
• Small parts (choking hazard)

Testing Timing

• Pre-production: Test fabric before cutting
• Production: Periodic testing during production
• Pre-shipment: Final verification before shipping

Test Reports and Documentation

• Maintain test reports for each production lot
• Keep reports for minimum 5 years
• Have reports available for customs if requested
• Include test report references in import documentation

Long-term quality improvement requires managing supplier performance systematically.

Supplier Qualification

Before first production:

• Factory audit (social compliance and capability)
• Sample evaluation
• Reference checks with other buyers
• Quality history review

Performance Tracking

Track quality metrics by supplier:

• Inspection pass rate
• Defect rate by type
• Return rate from customers
• Response to quality issues

Corrective Action Process

When quality issues occur:

1. Document the issue with evidence
2. Communicate clearly to supplier
3. Require root cause analysis
4. Agree on corrective actions
5. Verify implementation
6. Monitor for recurrence

Supplier Scorecards

Regular performance reviews:

• Quality score (inspection results, customer returns)
• Delivery score (on-time, complete)
• Responsiveness (communication, issue resolution)
• Improvement trend

Relationship Building

• Invest in long-term relationships with good suppliers
• Provide constructive feedback
• Share quality data and improvement goals
• Recognize and reward quality performance